Zanzibar Safari

Our adventure started the time we got out of the taxi the port. The port is a hub-bub of activity with people fighting for our attention to buy ferry tickets, or take a taxi. In Tanzania white people are referred to as mzungu, or more loosely "open wallet". At the port this effect is magnified with the number of wazungu traveling to Zanzibar. It was a bit exhausing, but a few Swahili words, mainly "no", got us through with limited trouble. Packed like sardines we were crowded into the ferry, where we found a nice rail spot. The 2 hour ride was highlighted by views of Dar es Salaam from the harbor, and a brief whale spotting. Arriving in Zanzibar we were once again met with "friendly" taxi drivers. Our hotel sent a driver who rescued us from the shark tank and brought us across the island with detourts to see various members of his family.

Our temporary home was located on Zanzibar's eastern coast in village of Bwejuu. Like everywhere on the island the beaches here were beatiful, but the best part of the trip was meeting the Bwejuu residents.

Finding dinner the first night was quite an ordeal. Unbeknownst to us, protocal for dining out requires one to make arrangements earlier in the day. This is because they catch the fish daily, and in addition it was Eid (the celebration concluding the month of Ramadan). This village threw an especially large carnival-like party, that lasted for the four days when we were there. Most places closed early in order to take part. We went to an inn next door at 7pm for dinner, to find it dark and empty. We were directed down the street to a small local establishment. It was pitch black outside and the one piece of advice Karim uncle gave us was 'Do not walk around at night by yourselves in an unfamiliar place, especially on the beach". Oh well. Eventually we made it (with the help of a zanzibari), to find ourselves as the only customers and the three person staff drunk. Our waiter who indroduced himself as Harry, like Harry Potter, amused us thoroughly with his comments on island life -- again polepole. To elaborate, he told us the story of the tortoise and the hare, where zanzibaris are like the tortoise. We let with stomaches full of fresh crab and calamari and high spirits.

This was ony the beginning of our adventures as we met some of our Bwejuu neighbors, including a German inn owner who had studied swahili and africana studies in college, a helpful young villager who took us to the festival, and our rastafarian friend, Ibrahim.

On our second day touring the village, we followed signs to an inn off the water called Miza wa Miza. While peeking around the bungalows, we ran into the owner Ibrahim. Immediately we were struck by this truely fascinating character. Having grown up in the village, his talents include music, organic farming, construction, and progressive thinking on how to help his fellow villagers. Two months ago he started an organic garden and after a month or two of talking about the benefits of this farm (which uses local seaweed and compost as fertilizer), he enlisted the help of 10 women from the village. Already there are huge eggplants (which we ate the next day for dinner) among other fruits and vegetables. He was clearly a man of action and it was inspring. When Max mentioned the potential for solar water heating, he immediately started asking questions, wanting to know more. And he invited Max to stay there for two months and help him build such a system (next visit?).

Later that day, we met one of our neighbors from the village who offered to take us to the Eid celebration. Of course we jumped on the offer. We actually ended going to the party twice. First, it was early, around 6. At this time, the festival was dominated by children all dressed up in new clothes. All the girls were wearing shiny, puffy dresses, had painted finger nails, and lots of make up. Kiosks of candy and toys were set up. And when we returned later that evening, those same kiosks were then selling dinner food and beer. There was also a disco party set up in the middle and everyone was dancing. It was riveting. Everyone was so happy and so warm to us, it was impossible not to reflect on how special an experience it truely was.

During our third and final full day in Bwejuu we wondered the beach for quite a while, before returning to visit our rafiki pya (new friend) Ibrahim, whom we enlisted to cook us dinner. He made a fantastic spread (not unlike what we had eaten the previous evening) with whole fried fish, vegitables in coconut sauce (from his garden), and rice. He sat with us after our meal and we chatted about a variety of topics, from rasta beliefs to african history, for several hours. If any of you ever find your way to Zanzibar, you really must stay with him. ---- Once again, Miza wa Miza, Bwejuu Village, Ibrahim -----

After only three days, we found it difficult to leave Bwejuu, as we had grown quite fond of the people, the food, the beach, and the cows wandering the streets. Alas, we left Wednesday morning and spent the remainder of the day in historic Stone Town. It was nice. We liked Bwejuu better. In all fairness, Stone town has great history and we hear it has a lively night life.

Now we are back in Dar es Salaam, where the traffic is a lot worse (we only saw a car or two a day in Bwejuu) and the people are more city-like. Our swahili is progressing polepole. We are beginning to make our final arrangements for our trip to Moshi...

Kwa heri,
Z & M


PS - Check out a couple of pictures from the trip on Flickr (see right sidebar)